November 2006 – Calico Restaurant and Patisserie
(dt)
6.81 - 7.5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 6.5, 5.5
One of our longer stretches between DP8 dates (seven weeks)
brought us back to the Teator abode on the 18th for cheese & crackers,
pretzels and dip, and mini-puffs, along with our usual array of red & white
wines, a beer, and a couple T&Ts for our usual pre-dinner get-together.
Darkness had already settled in, a sure sign of impending winter. Talk of laptap
computers, credit card fraud, Thanksgiving plans, yard work, Judy’s
retirement, etc., comprised a partial list of conversation topics.
Then, rampant speculation about the restaurant’s location filled the
ride. Nope, not the Mountaintop, nor Hudson, nor Saugerties, nor Tivoli, as the
passing of each intersection took us a bit further. A 7:15 reservation allowed
the tricksters to be almost on time to Rhinebeck, with a walk past and back to
Calico.
Beginning ambience was set by
the storefront lights of Rhinebeck – classic, small-town Americana. The
white-glow lights in the trees, along with semi-chilly November air, produced a
feel of Christmas only just around the corner.
Good things come in small packages. Calico is a cozy
looking establishment, with spacious front windows, inviting a glow of welcome.
A step inside revealed the smallest space that DP8 has been to. With a capacity
of 20-25, DP8 occupied nearly half the restaurant. Three tables put together
with a person on the ends felt even cozier, with Don’s back a couple feet away
from the dessert counter. Table tops were a mix of linen or glass on linen, with
table settings exuding an appealing antiqueness mixed with eclectic chic.
Classic bistro style chairs gave an airy touch, while recessed lighting on the
upper shelves revealed pottery and cats. As for the Calico part, a cat theme
playfully filled the room, especially the “catty” salt and pepper shakers.
Frank, our waiter, invited us to the evening’s occasion, offering to
take coats. Drink orders were taken – two bottles of Millbrook Pinot Noir
(deference given to local wines), two glasses of sparkling chardonnay, and a
diet soda. The red drinkers found the pinot noir “different” but a pleasant
libation for the evening. Two baskets of chewy bread came promptly, a practice
that DP8 appreciates.
Appetizers ordered included a terrine of roasted garlic with pesto and
goat cheese to be served on crostini, as well as an order of Manila clams
steamed in garlic butter broth and shallots. Both were excellent. Also serving
as an appetizer was the split pea soup, enticing four of us, and it was
unanimously rated excellent.
The next course,
salads, was only a plain spring mix (not abundant, but enough for most of us)
with a choice of lemon thyme garlic vinaigrette, creamy honey scallion or
mustard vinaigrette (plainer than we anticipated, too). Ken asked for oil and
vinegar and then had to watch the rest of us examine the twin-spouted, corked
contraption that held the dressing.
Although a sample menu had been distributed before hand, only two of the
orders came from the menu. Don had the charbroiled pork Delmonico steak, served
with apple raisin compote while Deb T had the sautéed shrimp and sea scallops
with plum tomatoes and onions, all in a basil cream sauce served over angel
hair. The gravy with the pork matched well with the mashed potatoes, and the
pork was tender and juicy. Deb savored her favorite – scallops – with the
other ingredients’ flavoring. Our plates, as were the other six, came piping
hot, a welcome touch on a cool night.
Four chose one of the specials – the flat iron steak, sliced like roast
beef. Two orders of well (Tom and Kriss), one of medium-well (Ken), and one of
medium-rare (Tim) were delivered as ordered, not a common feat. Although not
expecting slices of meat, all the steakophiles felt the preparation was
excellent.
Deb K and Judy requested
the tilapia special, topped with sautéed shallots, lobster, onions and
Portobello mushroom. Deb thought hers excellent, and Judy agreed, noting the
natural and fresh sensation.
All the meals, except the shrimp & scallops, came with mashed red
potatoes (with skins) and a mix of steamed carrots and zucchini. All noted the
worthy preparation of the mashed potatoes, a food choice that many of us don’t
avail ourselves of or is often not available.
Meanwhile,
the water glasses were constantly replenished, used plates whisked away, and
Ken’s coffee (Rule #7) was filled several times.
Dessert
had lurked beside us all night. Instead of the usual puddings, brulees, warm
chocolate brownies, berries and cream, etc., the patisserie counter’s upper
two shelves of individual treats beckoned. After the initial confusion of not
realizing the bottom row was not available, we ultimately chose a chocolate drop
(Don), a raspberry mousse cake (Deb T), a Tropica (Ken), an orange dome (Kriss),
a chocolate mound (Deb K), and none for Tim, Judy and Tom (the choice of Sambuca
and Frangelica was not available). The thin chocolate veneers were deliciously
delightful, and barely a crumb or stain of chocolate was left. Our hats off to
Pastry Chef Leslie. (Tim did have an excellent cappuccino, and Judy chamomile
tea.)
Service,
as was hinted at before, was excellent. Frank deftly maneuvered around the tight
spaces, professionally shifting from course to course, attentive without being
intrusive. He was congenial, inquiring, and confident – traits that presented
themselves early and throughout. (Thanks for service, Frank!) Two others of the
waitstaff kept the water glasses filled and table space manageable.
One quibble was a fluctuating
air temperature that ranged from very warm upon entry to somewhat too cool from
the air conditioning to mostly comfortable.
Conversation
flowed quite freely around the usual small stuff of life – more Thanksgiving
talk, ...., .....
Time
to settle came, and the bill of $100 per couple covered all – the consistently
excellent entrees, drinks, all having a salad, four soups, two appetizers, five
desserts, and tip. A wide range of food for an average amount of cost meant a
restaurant visit of good value.
The
pacing of the courses was comfortable, with little only a few minutes of down
time, about two-and-a-quarter hours from entry to departure. A walk back along
the streets was a pleasant way to end the first dinner of our fifth year
together.
Thanks, Calico, for an enjoyable visit to Rhinebeck.