Madalin's Table – June 2007
6.24 - 7, 6.9, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6, 5.5, 5
Securing Tivoli’s intersection of Broadway and North Road
sits Madalin's Table. Graciously inviting and wrapping along both street sides is
a covered porch, affording a pleasant evening for the casual diner. Dinner Party
of Eight, on the other hand, experienced a pleasant evening in the Red Room,
with its romantic, almost darkish, ambience; a burgundy-maroon textured
wallpaper; muddled spring-green wainscoting; a wall-filling, Thomas Cole-ish
painting on the north end; a Bunyanesque mirror on the opposite end; and
paintings and sketches of landscapes, fruit, countryside and pastoral scenes.
The classic signature of a weathered Madalin Hotel sign of a time long ago
joined the “can’t tell if it’s a tin-ceiling” as aesthetic touches to
the room. On the way in, we had passed by and glimpsed at the bar room, with its
open doors to the street.
A table of sides of
three, and ends of Tim and Chay, seated DP8 on this very wet, almost flooding
day. Three of us enjoyed a banquette that was comfortable all evening. A brace
of votive candles served as centerpieces. The recessed lighting focused on the
upper walls between the three windows and on the artwork. A very seasoned stand,
old hotel vintage, of glasses, acted as a centering focus between the entryways.
Two
ample baskets of white and nutty/whole grain artisan bread satisfied the early
munchers while Jared, our waiter for the night, took our drink orders: two
bottles of Jean Luc Colombo Les Abailles 2005 Cotes-du-Rhone red, a glass of
pinot grigio, a glass of Prosecco (Judy), and a diet soda. The wine, with a
taste of smooth cherry-fruit, seeped to bottles’ bottoms more speedily than
usual.
The menu, a mix of
main entrees, sandwiches and appetizers, somehow felt limiting to someDP8ers,
steering some to a combination of the lunch menu and an appetizer. The singular
relatively high price of the filet mignon kept a few from trying it.
Appetizers included two
Caesar salads (Kriss and Ken, a worthy mix), a polenta torte, with eggplant
caponata and goat cheese (Don, simple, yet interesting mix of flavors), seared
scallops (Deb T and Tim shared, satisfactory), two mesclun salads – a tasty
mix of greens, beets, bleu cheese, pistachios and vinaigrette (Deb T and Judy, a
tasty mix of flavors), a cornmeal crusted calamari with tomato confit (Deb K,
who thought it good but a recent Stockade Inn visit one-upped it), and chicken
wings (Ken, a verdict of good). All but the salads were shared and thus the
appetizers’ flavors were widely sampled.
The
entrees arrived about 70 minutes after seating, a comfortable schedule. Chay had
the pasta and shrimp with a creamy tomato sauce, with one of the three shrimp
undercooked, which was sent back and returned efficiently and cooked. (Chay
thought it just ordinary, at best.) Deb K and Don tried the mahi mahi taco, with
its cream, tomato and cilantro. (Both thought it a good idea but proved to be
overwhelmingly bland.) Kriss ordered a plate of fries and a giant grilled
chicken sandwich, half of which went home in a doggy bag. (good). Tim and Ken
chose the hanger steak (ok to good). Judy and Deb T tried the pork tenderloin
with its beet hash and spinach (good and excellent). Although the overall
quality was deemed average, the different tangents of taste were interesting.
The dessert menu was a long time coming, and probably overdue about ten
minutes but it felt longer. Chay sipped his usual Sambuca and Tim his
Frangelica. Don ordered the chocolate cake with beet ice cream & shavings of
chocolate. The ice cream definitely had a beet flavoring which was alluring and
offsetting at the same time. The cube of cake, both fluffy and dense at the same
time, was layered with satisfying chocolate. Judy and Deb T ordered the sorbet
– scoops each of coconut, passionfruit and mango. Their oohs and ahhs
testified to immense enjoyment. Deb K and Ken experienced the graham-crust
cheesecake, with a side of nuts and brown sugar, a worthy offering bordering on
average.
The service, headed by our waiter Jared, was mostly good but somewhat
erratic. Jared was personable with a flair of announcing our choices, which I
think we found interesting. It seemed as though part way through the evening
that he got busier than he could tend to, which, if true, is good for Madalin's
Table but we did not see him for a while, especially before and after dessert.
One waitstaff filled our glasses with water, which was appreciated but half the
time needed to be prompted (to be fair, we are big water drinkers). Another
waitstaff delivered the entrees and desserts. Ken was kept in coffee most of the
time, toying with the coffee contraption.
We
spent two and a half hours, comfortably leisurely except for about twenty
minutes near the end that lingered, well, dragged. Our bill collector, Deb K,
figured we owed $104, including food, liquor, and tip, a price that felt heftier
than we would have expected, considering almost half of us ordered from the
lunch menu.
Off
we walked into the light rain of what had been a much harder rain earlier, past
a few pesky insects that had found us in the dining room (open doors – great
atmosphere, a small price to pay?), and a slight exhaust smell that percolated
inside for a few minutes earlier.
All in all, DP8 had a
pleasurable experience with many interesting elements mixed with erratic ones,
with a highlight of ambience. Although the menu threw us a little off-balance, I
would be tempted to go back just for that, and on the covered street side.
Preceding all this was an-hour-early meeting at the
Adams’ residence, a concession to a Sunday night 6 p.m. reservation. Trays of
vegetables, cantaloupe and watermelon, cheese and crackers, and bruschetta kept
our taste buds active. Tanqueray and tonic, red wine, and white wine were the
usual aperitifs. Most notable was the absence of the Monteverds, who were seeing
Brian off at the Hudson train station; the Monteverds met us at Tivoli.
Conversation
at the Adamses and at the restaurant was the usual flow of catch-up on news –
weather, the Teator kitchen remodeling, Buddy and Krypton, cutting grass, dates
of get-togethers during the summer, Itzak Perlmen, etc. The “organizational”
meeting for South Carolina was planned, ... ...